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3354
user
I've updated from Yosemite to 10.11.1 on my mid 2014 macbook pro a few days ago. I've got a WLAN in my apartment (for other gadgets), but since the signal is a bit weak at my desk, I have connected the macbook to the router using a LAN cable and a thunderbolt-ethernet adapter and switched WLAN off on the macbook. All was well on Yosemite, but El Capitan insists on switching on WLAN during most boots. Is there any way to prevent this without removing admin rights from my user and without removing the WLAN network from the list of known networks?I'm concerned about the potential security issues (in case it might connect to open networks when I'm traveling). It's also a nuisance because WLAN seems to take priority over the ethernet connection, which means I have a slow and unstable connection until I remember to switch WLAN off again.I guess I could create a new user without admin rights. Since I made sure that admin rights are necessary to activate WLAN that should prevent the issue, but I would prefer to avoid this "solution".
agent
Your question touches upon a few different areas so I will aim to address these individually:Disabling a network serviceYou did not mention how you were disabling the Wi-Fi (i.e. WLAN) service, however there are generally two ways to do so from System Preferences in OS X:Click the Apple menu (), then System Preferences, then NetworkClick Wi-Fi or the custom-named service from the service list on the leftClick Turn Wi-Fi off, then close the System Preferences windowAlternatively:Click the Apple menu (), then System Preferences, then NetworkClick Wi-Fi or the custom-named service from the service list on the leftClick the gear icon (⚙), then Make service inactive, then click ApplyBoth methods should persist through a reboot or shutdown. Neither method requires removing any known networks, as you were concerned about, and both should result in the service being disabled until turned on again using the same method.It is important to note that if you click Turn Wi-Fi off in the method above, it is necessary to close the System Preferences window. If you reboot or shutdown without doing so, the option will not persist. Similarly, if you disable Wi-Fi from the menu bar icon (top-right of screen) the setting will not survive a reboot or shutdown.If, as you mention, the service is activated again after following one of the methods above, I would suggest removing the service completely (by selecting it from the service list and clicking the delete or — icon) then recreating it using the same settings, perhaps under a different name (e.g. WLAN Test).Note: You can always Revert any changes you make before Applying them in Network preferences. Be careful not to lose any details that you otherwise don't have written down.Protecting against open networksAs you suggested, it's wise to be concerned about the potential risks associated with open Wi-Fi networks, and you can at least opt out of joining these automatically:Click the Apple menu (), then System Preferences, then NetworkClick Wi-Fi or the custom-named service from the service list on the leftEnable the Ask to join networks checkbox:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nxOxm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>As described, known networks will be joined automatically. If no known networks are available a selection dialog will appear on-screen, giving you the option to join any available, but unknown, Wi-Fi network.For additional protection you can require the administrator password when changing networks:Click Advanced... then enable the Change networks checkbox under the heading Require administrator authorization to:Adjusting network service orderIt's generally advisable to prioritise your network services by their reliability, from most to least reliable, to give you the best experience when using multiple connections. In your case — since WLAN traffic appears to be taking priority over other traffic — this means giving the wired thunderbolt-to-ethernet service priority over your WLAN :Click the Apple menu (), then System Preferences, then NetworkClick the gear icon (⚙), and select Set Service Order... as shown below<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cc8WIm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>In the panel that appears arrange the services by dragging them to the desired order, for example:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjGsrm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>Click OK, then ApplyThe system will attempt to utilise services in the order that you specified above. If a service is not available (e.g. cable disconnected, no network available) it will fall back to the next service, if any, until a valid service is found, or alternatively all services fail.
user
Thank you. This is helpful. I'd already tried both alternatives for turning off WLAN. However, I've now reduced priority of the WLAN service. Let's see if that helps. I'll wait with accepting this answer until I know which part of this answer actually helped, if any. Btw. Apple's German localization is sometimes weird. I would have never guessed that that option means "Ask to join new networks".OK. Your first method of `Turn Wi-Fi off` doesn't persist, but your alternative `Make service inactive` seems to be what one has to do. I believe this is an example of bad user interface. If I turn something off using a provided UI element, I expect it to stay off unless I'm warned that it doesn't. Thanks again!
agent
@Roland To simplify things further, you may want to configure multiple network 'locations'. Each 'location' can be configured with different interfaces enabled or disabled, and different settings for each. You could, for example, have a 'Home' location with your wired interface enabled and everything else disabled, and a 'Work' location with Wi-Fi enabled and everything else disabled. Switching between locations is as easy as changing the current location in the drop-down menu at the top of the Network preferences window.
user
I'm sorry, but I have to unaccept this. It didn't solve the problem. Even though I have completely deactivated the WLAN service, El Capitan still occasionally tries to connect to available networks. The only difference now is that it isn't successful anymore.
agent
@Roland Can you try disabling the "Ask to join new networks" option?
user
I'll try if that makes a difference.
==================
4726
user
I have reason to believe that my iCloud account was recently breached and whoever did it is trying to lock my devices. I am aware that this is done through Find my IPhone and that they have set it to lost mode. However, when I go to Find my IPhone and I view the details of my mac, it simply says locked 6 minutes ago without an option to un-lost mode it. Is there any way to fix this / am I doing something wrong or do I have to go to an apple store and prove I own the device and such?Thanks all,Jimmy
agent
You would only have to go into an Apple store and prove ownership if your device is "bricked" after iOS/macOS is erased (meaning you cannot login to it due to forgotten password and/or Apple ID email address). When iCloud.com says the device is "locked" it does not mean "bricked," it simply means the screen is locked, like with your pin. It sounds like all you need to do is enable 2-Factor authentication in your Apple ID/iCloud account, plus change your password. This will prevent whomever "breached" the account from logging in again. See: <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204915" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204915</a>
user
The problem is that someone managed to get access already and has locked my mac with Find my iPhone. The screen looks like this: [img of screen](https://sophosnews.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/500-locked-mac1.png?w=500&h=263); this means they have already locked my mac and I am not sure how to unlock it, would this be similar to a "bricked" device? Thanks!
agent
Afraid so, yes. You need to produce a receipt and go into the Apple Store to get it unlocked (if you don't know the code). Good luck.BTW, if this MacBook is stolen (not saying you did, but just in general) it is worthless now, FYI.@Jimmy, can you award me the answer here, please? I believe I properly answered your question. Thanks.
user
I'm going to the store today so I'll see how it goes, thanks for the help
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4903
user
I have a 13" 2012 non-retina MacBook Pro that I intend on upgrading with a Samsung Evo 850 SSD. I have watched some tutorials and for the most part, I think I know what to do on the hardware side of things but I have two questions for the software side after the disk has been successfully installed. Question 1. Can I use the recovery menu (accessed by hitting command + r on boot) to both format, and install a version of MacOS? Question 2. If so, do I need to initialize the disk before installing it? Or can I literally unbox the SSD, install it in my MBP, and then format/install MacOS via recovery?
agent
What you do depends on how you want to setup your Mac. More specifically, do you want to just do a totally clean installation of macOS, or do you want to migrate your existing setup (including users/data) across to the SSD?Regardless, you will need to format the SSD first. Probably the easiest way to proceed is to connect it to your Mac via an external enclosure and then use Disk Utility to format it. If you haven't got an external enclosure (or another way to connect the SSD), then you could insert the SSD into the MacBook and opt to run macOS Recovery from the Internet. To do this, hold down OptionCommandR (or, if that doesn't work, try ShiftOptionCommandR). NOTE: If you proceed this way then:It may be worth you testing to make sure you can boot into macOS Recovery from the internet prior to going to the trouble of physically installing the SSD into your MacBook.The only way to migrate all your data is if you have a Time Machine backup on an external disk (i.e. if you don't have a TM backup and want to keep your current setup, then you will need to either make a TM backup first, or have a way of connecting the SSD or the internal drive to your Mac for migrating the data across).Regardless, once booted into macOS Recovery, run Disk Utility to format the SSD.Once it’s formatted you can install macOS, but how you proceed will depend on how you want to setup your Mac. More specifically, do you want to just do a totally clean installation of macOS and then install software etc as you need, or do you want to migrate your existing setup (including users/data) from a Time Machine backup?If you're planning to migrate data from a Time Machine backup, then take a look at <a href="https://support.apple.com/HT201250" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to use Time Machine to back up or restore your Mac</a>.
user
Thank you for the detailed reply. I do not wish to transfer over anything from my other mac. I'd like to do a fresh install. When you say "test to make sure you can boot into MacOS recovery" do you just mean try booting into the recovery menu right now? I have done so and that shouldn't be an issue. It sounds like I'll be okay then. All I need to do is install, go to MacOS recovery, format the drive, and then install MacOS.
agent
Well, what I mean is that if you remove the current internal drive, then there is no macOS Recovery partition stored locally anymore. If that's the case, the only way to boot from macOS Recovery is to do it from the Internet. So, by testing to see if you can do that without any problems, I'm suggesting you manually do that beforehand as a test (i.e. by using the keyboard shortcuts in my answer). This will take a little time (it is over the internet after all), but it's probably more convenient then installing the SSD and then finding for some reason you actually can't boot via the internet. :)
user
Excellent. I ended up just cloning the drive but I appreciate your advice.
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1316
user
I recently installed VMWare Fusion and added Windows 7. Now when I right-click on a text file and choose Open With, there's an option to open with Notepad in Windows 7. This is not something I want enabled. How can I remove this choice?
agent
One solution is to install <a href="http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/14618/rcdefaultapp" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RCDefaultApp">RCDefaultApp</a> and change the file association for text files.Another solution is to disable Windows application integration for that virtual machine. To do that open the virtual machine, go to the Virtual Machine menu and select Settings.... Change the settings for Default Applications. You likely want to uncheck Run Windows applications from you Mac's Applications folder
user
Looks handy, thank you. Unfortunately it appears that it's no longer maintained; at least one commenter notes it doesn't work with Mountain Lion.
agent
Hmm, I use it with Mountain Lion.
user
Nice, @Hair. Changing the settings via Fusion is the right answer. I've been all through those settings, but didn't see that. Note that a reboot is required for the changes to take place. Thank you!
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242
user
I've just bought an iPhone 4 and I want to connect to the internet but I can't do so.Do I need an apple id to use an iPhone?Definitely I've contacted my dataplan service and they are saying I should be able to connect to the internet now. But i can't!I've waited over 3 weeks but still no internet. These are the messages i get from 1627: May 8, 2011 5:33 PM Dear Valued Customer, your GSM Mi World Mobile service has been activated as requested. Dear Valued Customer, your GSM Mi World Mobile service has been activated as requested. May 16, 2011 1:08 PM Thank you for re-contracting your M1 line with IPHONE 4, 16GB, WHITE. Please call us at 1627 immediately if you did not subscribe to M1 service(s).I'm thinking there's something I need to do in settings but I don't know what.. Right now if i open safari it just won't connect.
agent
No - you only need a correctly provisioned data plan and working iPhone software. There isn't much that you can mis-configure unless you jailbreak or start mucking with <a href="http://www.macworld.com/article/143088/2009/10/carriersettings.html" rel="nofollow">custom iPhone carrier settings profiles</a>. iPhone data can break or be misconfigured on the carrier end - even if SMS and voice calls work, there can still be a problem with the data service so you may need to get help from your carrier that is providing your data access. It could also be a software issue and Apple is the best place to get that sorted.Your question is basically how do I systematically troubleshoot iPhone data and/or teach myself how to operate my new phone. (no offense, but it's hard to determine from a one sentence question what your level of comfort is with iPhone data terms and how it may break.)You might want to get some help from Apple or the carrier since the internet works as long as you are in working Wifi or your data plan is active on the iPhone. Troubleshooting an issue by back and forth on a discussion board is very hard so it's best to get real-time assistance when you are sitting in front of your computer to update the software if needed.<a href="http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/" rel="nofollow">http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/</a> has some great getting started tips if you want to work through it yourself.Specifically <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1976" rel="nofollow">http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1976</a> documents the concepts and has an express lane link to get support directly from Apple to narrow down the cause - if 3G is showing in the menu bar it's not some obvious error or switch but something obscure or a carrier issue.
user
ok my data plan is active. i can sms / make calls etc. Im not trying to connect using wifi. i'm trying to connect using 3gs, how may i do it?
agent
sms travels over a command channel unused by voice, voice can be active and data not provisioned. Have you informed your carrier that data you are paying for isn't working and have their tech verify that dataplan is actually active on their wireless network for your SIM?
user
yes i've called them and they say that its active. But i still can't connect!
agent
Then you can strike that off the list. Hang in there - you'll know how these things work before long. Next up is getting help from Apple in person or over the internet to work through the potential device issues. Good Luck!
user
@bmike i've updated the question with more info
agent
Three weeks of patience! You must be a saint. In the settings app, what are the following values? Version, carrier, modem firmware. Have you connected to iTunes and updated the iPhone software? Also enter field test mode by calling \*3001#12345#\* - I'm curious what PDP Context List - 0 - lists. You should have an ip address, PDP Type of "IP" and access point name iPhone
user
@bmike my carrier is SGP-M1-3GSM. I don't know about the version / modem firmware (where is it shown?). I've connected to ITunes to put some songs in but I don't know if i did (or how to) update the iphone software. When i call 3001#12345# i get "Error performing request No Network Service"
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4685
user
My company invited me to join its iCloud calendar.On my iPhone I didn't activate "Calendar" in the iCloud settings until now for data privacy reasons.Will my private calendar on my iPhone be synced to my personal iCloud as soon as I activate the "Calendar" switch in the iCloud settings? Or does my private local calendar stay local and I'd need to transfer my local calendar to iCloud manually if desired?
agent
You can have a seperate "On My Mac" calendar, which stays local. You can then have additional calendars for iCloud—only those calendars will be synced. You don't have to have iCloud activated for calendars to be invited either. Simply create a new "On my Mac" calendar, call it "Work" if you want, and add the event invitations to that.<a href="https://support.apple.com/kb/ph2682?locale=en_US" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://support.apple.com/kb/ph2682?locale=en_US</a>Update:As mentioned in my comment below. If you have an existing local calendar e.g. "On My Mac" or "On My iPad" and you sign into iCloud, you will be asked "What would you like to do with your existing calendars". Click Cancel to keep your existing local calendar.The local calendar has to exist before signing into iCloud. I couldn't find a way to add a local calendar if already signed into iCloud.You will now be able to create a "Work" iCloud calendar and access the shared iCloud calendar. You will also have the private local calendar.
user
I want to see the calendar entries of my company in my iPhone on the go i.e. when I'm travelling and a colleague adds an appointment to the iCloud calendar of the company this appointment shall appear in my calendar app on the iPhone. Is that possible?https://support.apple.com/kb/PH2694?locale=en_US&viewlocale=en_US says: "Invitees to a private calendar must have an iCloud account."
agent
I did some tests on my iPad-iOS 10.3. I wan't able to add a local calendar while I was signed into iCloud. However, I signed out, created a new "On My iPad" local calendar and created an event. I then signed back in. iCloud asked "What you you like to do with your existing calendars? Merge or Cancel". I Cancelled. I can now see a seperate local calendar on my iPad, that is not available on my other devices. I think this is what you're after? You can now go to Settings > Calendar > Default Calendar to set where your personal events can be saved.
user
Thanks for pointing this out. I already have a local calendar with lots of private dates. Can I be sure that iOS asks me "What you you like to do with your existing calendars? Merge or Cancel" as soon as I activate iCloud calendar integration. If that's the case that would be a solution indeed.
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5660
user
Running macOS 10.14.2. Safari 12.0.1.Symptoms:Safari redirects searches through proxy to bingChrome redirects searches through proxy to bingIn Privacy Settings, under Automation "Finder" with no icon has access to SafariWhen removing it, a preferences pop up shows up.Immediately after a memory warning shows up and cancel the preferences pop up."Finder" reappears under "Automation" with safari checked.When quitting Safari, it launches alone. (Can't close safari)Attempts:Used "tccutil reset AppleEvents", both pop ups appear once after execution.Used Avira anti-virus with quick scan it found and eliminated 1 virus, ran a full scan and it found and removed 4. Did not run it again.No clue how to remove this without disabling SIP which is not something I necessarily want to do, nor would I know how to exactly find "Finder". It also seems to be using some exploit to grant itself Automation privileges even after you uncheck them via some memory issue that triggers the memory warning. How can malware like this be cleaned?
agent
I wouldn't disable SIP if you have active malware on your system. If you have another Mac you can use or borrow, I'd boot your Mac into <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201462" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Target Disk Mode</a>, connect it to the other Mac with a Thunderbolt cable, and then run both Avira and Malwarebytes on it from the other Mac. This allows the antimalware software to ignore any SIP protection on the TDM'd Mac and perform a full clean.If you can't use another Mac, then install a bootable copy of macOS onto an external drive, boot from that, and do the same.If you can't do either, boot into <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201262" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Safe Mode</a>, run Avira, and then if it finds something, let it clean it and then reboot again into Safe Mode. Now run Malwarebytes and do the same. Always reboot after a pass where it found something, because whatever it is that it found may be preventing you from finding anything further until you reboot with it gone.
user
After every pass Avira finds a different number of viruses. Never 0.
agent
Are you attempting cleanup while booted from the infected filesystem, or using another option I mentioned earlier?
user
Safe Mode option. However I ended up switching to malware bytes and it worked.
==================
2027
user
TL;DRSince it seems obvious that at present Apple can do nothing to help me: I need some way of getting as much of my content (music/apps/contacts/etc) out of this account... what can I do? All of my music/apps/contacts since like 2004 are in this account!The answer which gives me the most ways of extracting my purchases will get the answer vote and bounty.If my password is ever stolen I will not be able to change it, I would have to have the account locked and I would lose thousands of dollars worth of purchases!Ok so I had enabled Apple's two-step authentication in order to have more security. It told me to "save the recovery key in a safe place like your wallet" so I just took that suggestion.Now, I was robbed. My wallet AND iPhone (my authorized device) were both stolen. Now I have no way of managing my iCloud account so I cannot:change my passwordpurchase anything from an iPhoneIf I want to purchase new apps I have created a new account, but if there is an app already purchased on my old account I have to switch back and download it... however they changed it so now I cannot switch accounts on my iPhone for 90 days!The only thing I can think to do, is to try and extract as much as I can from that account (contacts, music, apps) and then store them somewhere...I am kind of sad that I have lost functionality and Apple has made there literally be NO WAY to recover without at least 2 of the recovery options (my 2 were stolen).So this is also now LESS secure, because if my password becomes compromised I have no way of changing it (can't manage account with only password now).Any idea what steps I should take? One I can think of is to go to all my accounts that I had used my iCloud e-mail for and change that. But as for my app purchases and music purchases, I am pretty much hosed.Will I be able to stop using the old account entirely (I guess have them lock it) but before I do that extract out my content for use? Music I can burn to MP3, but apps... I don't think I will be able to get updates for apps purchased under that account if I lock the account.EDIT just realized my apple developer account is bound to this login as well, FML
agent
The way this is supposed to work is to log in to <a href="https://appleid.apple.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://appleid.apple.com</a> and have several devices for authentication.Have you double checked that you don't have SMS as one of your options? If so, you can just get another SMS capable cell phone from the carrier using your number and be able to log in to reissue a new recovery key.To paraphrase the KB article - <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5577" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5577</a> If you lose permanently access to all of your trusted devices AND your recovery key, you will not be able to use that AppleID. Hopefully you can either recover your phone or the wallet (police report and/or reward work in different situations) after a few days and add in some more items, regenerate your recovery key or disable the two-factor security on your account.Also, you will want to make a phone call to developer support and ask if they have any way to assist you in enrolling another trusted device so that you can continue to do business with them. The developer program has far more ability to tell you from a random impersonator due to the legal forms and verification you may have filled out to enter the program and sell an app.Also realize that Apple intentionally set this up knowing that some people would be in your situation and make sure you acknowledge that they don't have to help you out, but if they can find a way to, you would really appreciate it. However, since you have thousands of dollars at stake, I can't imagine you wouldn't be able to call into developer support and work with them to regain access as a one-time exception to the policy. Heck, Apple might be able to assist with a letter that corroborates a police report of the theft and open up options to claim this against insurance.Lastly, check with your insurance since the cost to re-establish your accounts and purchases might just be covered. Your sure move is to get a new AppleID move on, securing it with more layers (and spread over more than one location) of verification devices. Hopefully, you can recover one of the items that was stolen and avoid the lengthy process of convincing either Apple or an insurance agent to help you out of this understandable but painful predicament.
user
this part cracks me up: As long as you remember your Apple ID password and still have access to one of your trusted devices, you can sign in and create a new Recovery Key.Go to My Apple ID, select "Manage your Apple ID," and sign in.Under Edit your Apple ID, select "Password and Security."Under Recovery Key, select Replace Lost Key and follow the onscreen instructions.NOPE: it asks for the RKEY when I try to login
agent
I don't doubt you're locked out - and without seeing your list of devices, your only avenue may be to enter the key that has been lost. I figured describing how it's _supposed_ to work was a long shot at helping your predicament. I wish I had any reports of Apple deviating from the policy, but I haven't heard of a case where they budged on this yet.
user
yeah I hope they fix this soon, not only is it a security flaw because I can't change my password but also I am not going to make any new purchases until this is addressed, I don't want to tie up any more money in a system that I could be locked out of like this
agent
@ioSamurai That's a good plan. What has come of your attempt to call into developer support. Did you open a line of communication with them to get your options to recover the account and/or transfer your app to a new account? My guess is developer support would be able to talk to iCloud and get an engineer to add a verified cell phone to your list of recovery devices and then let you reset things as normal. You might also be able to convince them of a purchase made in person at a retail store for a new iPod touch and grant that device permissions over the account.
user
I have yet to call developer support, I will try that soon. I am wondering if the security is such that not even anyone at Apple can access the account. Kind of like how a password can be hashed.
==================
3190
user
Sometimes I want to make a screenshot and found that if I do that on a 4k screen, then the screenshot is quite clear (and is in a high resolution).So I can do this when my Macbook Pro is connected to a 4k display. But let's say if I am on a trip, how do I make the Macbook Pro show or think it is showing in 4k? I think this is possible even when we don't install any driver or software, because we can plug in a 4k display and choose "mirror the 2 displays" and the Macbook Pro native screen will pretend that it is a 4k screen, and any screen capture there will be in 4k resolution.So the question is, if I temporarily don't have a 4k display, say on a business trip, how do I tell the Mac to show the native screen in 4k or even 5k?
agent
It depends on which 4K you're referring to; if you're talking about the "actual" <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution" rel="nofollow">4K</a> (4096 × 2160), then: no (though you can come close).However, if you're talking about the UHD 4K definition (See the link to Wikipedia above), which is 3840 × 2160, you can do it using 3. party utilities such as <a href="http://www.quickresapp.com/" rel="nofollow">QuickRes</a> (paid), <a href="http://www.madrau.com/" rel="nofollow">SwitchResX</a> (paid), or <a href="https://dl.dropbox.com/u/87351306/RDM.tar.gz" rel="nofollow">Retina Display Mode</a> (free).I've used QuickRes for a couple of years and definitely find it worth the $5. It's also the app I used to test.Keep in mind: this only applies to the 15", the 13" can "only" display up to 3360 × 2100.
user
I feel somewhat worried if it is to download an app from a random place and run it on the Mac. Is this the official page for it: https://www.reddit.com/r/apple/comments/vi9yf/set_your_retina_macbook_pros_resolution_to/ As the page says, is there a command line version. If so, at least I know what is going on. By the way, is RDM the same as going to Mac's Settings, Display, and Resolution: Scaled: More Space? If I do that and do a screenshot, the image is 3840 x 2160 also
agent
Seems reasonable to be cautious. I think that it is the same as the settings. When the resolution apps were made in 2012-13, those options weren't available natively, now they are, it seems. Then please just disregard that part of my answer :) I did run the app on my machine though and nothing bad happened.It *is* indeed the same as the settings. Just tested to make sure
user
I tried similar things with the 12 inch Macbook, and was able to get a width of 2880, so that's close to 3k and quite impressive. And then, wouldn't it theoretically be able to go up to 3840, since it can drive such a display?
agent
I'm afraid not. The graphics chip might be able to handle it but the actual display need to be able handle it too.
user
the actual display needs to be able to handle it? I think it is just some software or driver merely taking 3 dots and show it as 2, or take 2 dots and showing it as 1, etc
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3045
user
When browsing through Apple Music, there are curated Apple Music Playlists.Now, I can add each song of the Apple Music Playlist to "My Music" by right clicking and selecting "Add to my Music". That's very inconvenient, when I want to add all songs of that playlist to "My Music". Is there any easier way? Any one-click solution?
agent
Yes you can, on both iTunes and your Apple device. You didn't mention which device specifically, but on iTunes, look for the + icon or the ..., which you can click and Add to My Music as well.Check out these screenshots below on iTunes. I boxed the + icon on both pictures because that is the simpler approach, but you can also click the ...:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9z5FG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nhDL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
user
Hm, yes... But it doesn't do what it should, i think! If I click on "Add to My Music", wait for a bit. Then click on it again, to make sure the entry "Add to My Music" isn't showing up anymore. Then go back to "My Music" and search for a track, e.g. Drake - Legend. It does not show up... Shouldn't it?
agent
Ah yes. Well in perfect circumstances this does work. But what you're facing is what many users are facing too. Apple Music, which relies on icloud music library, is very buggy, and changes you make to your library don't work automatically. I've faced this issue with rating songs. There isn't a fix for this really yet, but you can try restarting, signing out, etc
user
Ok cool, thx for clarifying/veryfing that ;) Yeah iCloud/iTunes Match has been buggy for years now. I am really surprised it's such a disaster ...Finally found a solution, I've described it on my blog: https://blog.benmarten.me/2015/12/24/How-to-Add-all-Songs-of-a-Apple-Music-Playlist-to-My-Music-Library/
==================
2525
user
I want to set up iCloud keychain on my apple devices. To do so I went to settings > iCloud > keychain and turned it on and a button 'Approve with security code' appeared. It asked my iCloud security code and after it asks for 6 digit verification code that has been sent to my old phone number that I no longer have access to. After trying to find where I can change my number. I already went to settings > phone > my number and entered my current number but the phone still has sends the verification code to the old number.I am using an iPhone 6 with iOS 8.1Also tried to set it up on the a macbook with Yosemite but it also send the verification code to the old number.
agent
Login into <a href="https://appleid.apple.com/" rel="nofollow">https://appleid.apple.com/</a> and you will be able to change under Phone Numbers.
user
I have changed the number to my current one. But the validation code is still being sent to the old one.
agent
Is you past phone still registered on your [Support Profile](https://supportprofile.apple.com)?
user
both numbers under Phone numbers are my current ones
==================
926
user
I have a Macbook Pro running Lion 10.7.3. It has an SSD with 2 partitions: the OS is located in partition 1 and my user home is in partition 2.Everything was working fine, but some days ago I had to restart the notebook and now the OS says that it can not access to my user folders, I cannot navigate (via terminal) to the OS folders, like Library and others.I've tried many things, including run fsck and Disk Utility's to Repair Permissions but nothing works; what could happened? Suggestions to solve or try?
agent
Check in the "User & Groups" System Preferences, it looks like OS X may have somehow forgotten the path to where your "Home directory:" is at.If you can still login, verify that your Path is still what you set in System Preferences for your "Home directory:" path.If you can't log in, then try logging in as another Admin user to fix your home directory location. Try to login as that user and then edit, verify where the OS thinks your home directory is for your primary user account. <a href="http://www.rit.edu/its/services/desktop_support/mac/xforcenewadminacccount.html" rel="nofollow">Create a new Mac OS X adminstrator account without an existing administrator password</a> might be helpful in your situation, so that you can have another admin account to help you trouble shoot.Restart the computer in Mac OS X single user mode by holding Command-S at startup.Mount the computer's drive for read/write access. To do so, type the following command at the command prompt, and then press Enter:% mount -uw /Remove the file that identifies that the initial run of the "Mac OS X Setup Assistant" has been completed, with this command at the command prompt, followed by Enter:% rm /var/db/.applesetupdone #Update on Lion it looks like its .AppleSetupDoneRestart the computer by entering this command, followed by Enter.% rebootThe Mac OS X Setup Assistant screen should appear after the reboot, just as it does when you start up a brand new computer or upgrade to a new version of Mac OS X.Create a new user account with the Setup Assistant. Be sure to name this user something different than the admin user that already exists on the system, and use a strong password (see "Mac OS X password tips"). At the end of the Setup Assistant process, the system will automatically log into this new user account. The account will have a unique ID (UID) that is one higher than the last user that was on the system, and will have all administration privileges.Log in as the new user, and then edit the "Home directory:" Advanced Options path for your primary user.
user
Hi, no, I don't have another user, but I can try to log as root or create another one and see what happens.. I've already tried to reestablish the home directory path.. but no luck... the folder "disappeared" ... :SI'll try to follow your tips at home at night,... The new user should be named the one that I have now (the one that I've lost the home folders)?
agent
No create a separate and different user name, you don't want two user with the same name, this account would be something to help you diagnose issues on your machine and not to replace your current user account.Interesting, I would try to navigate to where your "external" home directory is and verify that the User ID and Group ID of the folder and all things in it matches that of your primary user account. Does it?
user
Hi dude!... I've tried your suggestions and I found some interesting things..I created a new user with admin role and logged in with it.. I can see the lost folders "but" they are in another partition and the group is a different one... I don't know how, but I have another partition, really strange because my ssd does not have free space. it's named "Datos 1" and the original one was called "Datos", I can see both of them, but it seems that the OS not...any suggestion?.. I could backup my important data and delete the partition and create it again and reinstall... but I believe there should be something easier...
agent
Can you take a screen shot of your Disk Utility Application window, showing the internal drives and partitions on the right of the window. And share a link or post a picture of it.
user
Hi Daniel... here are some pictures about it..http://i.imgur.com/5Cmjc.pnghttp://i.imgur.com/NTppS.pnghttp://i.imgur.com/GkiC9.pngIs this helpful? I've tried many things but nothing works...
agent
What is in Datos vs Datos 1 when you `cd` in them in the /Volumes. Are they the same different, which one has your data in it?
user
I believe I've solved it :) I renamed the partition(Datos 1) where i believed my data was, then updated the home folder of the affected user to point to this "new" partition and everything was there... so the other partition(Datos) was created by who knows and that was the problem... Thanks a lot for your tips dude!
==================
2116
user
I believe my issue is different from all that I've read. I live on a boat in a marina. The marina has towers (transmitters) placed around in various spots. The internet provider is Beacon wi-fi. A big wi-fi provider for marinas around USA, Canada and Bahamas. So I get my password from the marina and log in. I use a MacBook Pro laptop which has an internal wi-fi antenna. So there is no router or modem on board my boat. My problem is the connection is extremely poor. When I finally get connected the reception is weak. Streaming a hockey or football game is almost impossible. Loading a page of text can be fast as times but usually takes 15 to 90 seconds to load when it's at it's best. A 2 minute utube video can take 30 minutes. My boat is about 200 feet from the closest tower of transmitters or whatever they might be called. There are several to chose from on my drop down list. I have to constantly keep selecting a different one to get reconnected. The PHY Mode is 802.11G The RSSI: is sometimes as good as -59 but usually around -80 when I'm actually getting as good a reception as possible. I've tried this trick. I bought an external wi-fi (looks like a memory stick) and a USB extension cord plugged into one of my ports. I then got a large kitchen strainer and poked a hole in it at the bottom and fastened the wi-fi gizmo to it. Then pointed it towards the transmitters on the poles on the wharfs. It did make an improvement but it was minimal and not consistent plus it cost $100 so I returned the USB extension cord and the external wi-fi. Anybody want a free strainer with a hole in it? I contacted Beacon wi-fi in Dallas and they say everything is good at their end. I've contacted the marina and they say everything is good at their end. Does anyone have any tricks other than what I've tried to improve my internet?
agent
I would recommend searching Amazon (or wherever) for a wifi range extender and finding one that would work on your boat. <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003ILWRLI" rel="nofollow">There's even one that is specifically for boats and comes with a 5M usb cable.</a>
user
Any range extenders I've come across on line are designed to extend the range from a router or modem. As in getting reception in your attic if the router or modem is in the living room. As you read, my situation is different and the retailers don't think it will make any difference since it won't be hard wired to any incoming internet service. I'm not sure why there would be range extenders designed for sailboats? Perhaps I should mention that I'm on a large power boat with 110 outlets throughout the boat and I'm plugged into shore power.
agent
sorry, for boats, not sailboats in particular
user
I appreciate your input and I'll ask my marine supplier if they have anything. I may have overlooked the obvious source. Thanks
==================
4073
user
I have an old laptop (which is definitely on its last strides). It's a MacBook Air Late 2010 and its running like a slug (I have abused the laptop beyond comprehension) so for its final year or two I want to get the most out of it. I already have a 2' monitor attached and I want to know if I get a GTX 970 and attach it with <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00LTAUTHE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">one of these things</a> (Using thunderbolt) if it will function properly and that I'm not burning $600 for something my computer can't handle.
agent
Unfortunately not, <a href="https://support.apple.com/kb/sp618?locale=en_US" rel="nofollow">your Macbook</a> doesn't have Thunderbolt, only Mini DisplayPort. For best results, your mac should have Thunderbolt 2 to take full advantage of the speeds.By the way, I have Macbook 2011 and I had 2x Thunderbolt displays at 2560x1440 with my integrated HD3000 512mb without a problem. But it was fast as hell when I added a SATA3 SSD with 560mbps read. Hard drives are bottlenecking! :)
user
do you know if i could upgrade the ports to support thunderbolt instead of displayport?
agent
Nope you can't, you need a newer Macbook. Thunderbolt 1 was released with Early 2011 Macbook and Thunderbolt 2 was released with Late 2013 Macbook.
user
so i cant like switch the IO and have it work?
==================
105
user
What cable do I need to display my iPhone on my TV?I have a jailbroken iPhone 3GS running iOS 4.2.1.
agent
The <a href="http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC917ZM/A?fnode=MTY1NDAzOQ&mco=MjAyNDI1ODQ" rel="nofollow">Apple Component AV Cable</a> will let you connect from the iPhone's dock connector to RCA jacks on your TV. It won't be HD.Standard Disclaimer: Since it's jailbroken, neither I or Apple can guarantee full/any support.
user
Do u know of any 3rd party cables that are less expensieve?
agent
The Griffin A/V is the same, and $35. http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/a-v-cablesAlso worth mentioning that both of these come with an AC adapter.
user
i dont think the griffin one is compatible with the iphone.
agent
I think that it probably is. They may have not updated their specs yet (iPod Touch stops at G3, and there's no reason for that to change). However, it may not be worth the $5 to risk it.
user
yeah i guess your right. thnx.
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1715
user
Does a mac with USB 3.0 support UAS (USB Attached SCSI)? If it does, how can we enable it in OS X and bootcamp? I need better speeds for my external RAID.
agent
Apparently what you need is already in Lion see this blog <a href="http://fortysomethinggeek.blogspot.com/2013/04/osx-mountain-lion-108-uas-uasp-usb.html" rel="nofollow">OSX Mountain Lion 10.8 UAS UASP USB Attach SCSI drivers</a>Note I have nothing to do with the blog. It was at the top of the list when I googled USB Attached SCSI OSX
user
How about bootcamp? I use bootcamp quite a lot.
agent
@jw382 It depends on the version of Windows you are using.
user
Windows 8 Professional
agent
@jw382 That is supported in W8 .. so it comes down to what hardware you are running it all on.
user
Do I need a specific driver to enable the feature? It seems that I don't have the USB attached SCSI driver under storage controllers in device management.
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2344
user
At my workplace we pair program and sometimes need to get on a call with a remote team member. We also have quite a noisy office. We have USB headsets for these reasons. We, of course, use macs.In addition to the remote calls it would be great fun to be able to have music playing through both people's headsets and be able to talk over it. So some sort of ducking would be useful.We've tried creating an aggregate device as described <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3956">here</a> but it only sends audio from one mic, and you can't hear yourself talking. So unless you know some setting tweak we don't, an aggregate device won't work.I'm very close to creating my own utility at this point, but before I dive in and hurt my brain learning OSX audio, does anyone know something that will achieve what I want?
agent
I haven't tried this, but if you're <a href="http://www.macworld.com/article/2089460/a-tale-of-two-microphones.html" rel="nofollow">willing to experiment</a>:Try using (no joke) Garageband with your aggregated device setup. No need to hit the record button, but you can use the monitor function to hear yourself speak. And since it presumably knows what to do with both mics, you might both be able to speak.You may also use <a href="http://www.rogueamoeba.com/freebies/" rel="nofollow">LineIn</a> to be able to hear yourself speak. And finally, <a href="http://cycling74.com/products/soundflower/" rel="nofollow">soundflower</a> may be useful if you need to shuttle audio from one app to another before making it to your headphones... like say background music from iTunes or whatever.~~~Update from OP: Thanks, I ended up going with something based on the ideas in your post but developed the solution on my own. Here it is: <a href="http://pivotallabs.com/ultimate-headphone-pairing" rel="nofollow">pivotallabs.com/ultimate-headphone-pairing</a>
user
Thanks, I ended up going with something based on the ideas in your post but developed the solution on my own. Here it is: http://pivotallabs.com/ultimate-headphone-pairing/
agent
Outstanding post! I've edited my answer to include your link. PS, love pivotal tracker :-)
user
Thanks! And I don't work on Tracker but we do use it every day. I'll pass it on to the team here!
==================
5087
user
How can I change the location of the Music folder from /Users/Me/Music to an external drive, so that iTunes saves its stuff there? This is so that I can access the XML file that you can create from iTunes for Windows programs to use. And yes, I know that the file paths are not the same, but it will still be helpful.
agent
You can set the folder iTunes uses directly in iTunes -> Preferences:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0T1dF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
user
I know about that, I'm talking about the library files(the .itl files). That's why I want to change the Music folder's location altogether
agent
@PiAhoy Can you please edit your question to be more specific about what you want to accomplish?
user
Done. I just want to move the location of the Music folder to a different partition.
==================
2758
user
I want to buy LG 31MU97-B as a new external monitor for my Macbook Pro Retina 15" late 2013 with Intel Iris Pro only. But this monitor has real 4k resolution of 4096 x 2160! Can i get this resoluton at 60Hz on my rMBP?
agent
I'm afraid not.From <a href="http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i7-2.0-15-iris-only-late-2013-retina-display-specs.html" rel="nofollow">Everymac</a> *This model supports a simultaneous maximum resolution up to 2560x1600 on two external displays via Thunderbolt. Alternately, it can support a single display up to 2560x1600 via Thunderbolt and a single 1080p display at up to 60 Hz, 3840x2160 at 30 Hz, or 4096x2160 at 24 Hz via HDMI.From <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-in/HT202856" rel="nofollow">Apple</a> You can use 4K displays and Ultra HD TVs at the following resolutions and refresh rates via the built-in HDMI port. 3840 x 2160 at 30 Hz refresh rate 4096 x 2160 at 24 Hz refresh rate (mirroring is not supported at this resolution)
user
it says "4096x2160 at 24 Hz via HDMI", what about DP?
agent
for this, TB/DP are one & the same.
user
But seems, Yosemite would support it at 50Hz: http://www.jailbreakmodo.com/lg-31um97-mac-supported-4k-monitor.html
agent
over HDMI @ 24Hz. Answer updated.
user
At least at 50Hz would be ok, but 24Hz is too irritating.
agent
then you'll need to wait until Apple releases a machine or update that enables it. Even the Mac Pro can't do it as yet.
user
Yep. On offical LG website it says: MBPr late 2013 can run full res at 50Hz with OSX 10.10. http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-31MU97LOL!
==================
5049
user
Thank you in advance for any useful hints.After login I get a totally black screen or one with a spinning wheel.I have tried the following things.Zap nvramSmc resetDeleted as single user login peers.Start as another user that was installed for migrationVerbose mode... too fast to read and ends up in the same thingDid try shift ore safe mode.. same result. Shift makes No difference to the boot processStarted into recovery mode which doesn't want to let me repair my disk. The stupid High Sierra installation made it encrypted. Can't remember that it asked me.. it was certainly not that I wanted it.I had restarted because Lightroom kept crashingI have been struggling for 8 hours now and I am at wits endNO. there is no other working mac and internet installationis not possible because I am on a 3g phone line in rural Costa RicaThere is only 1 thing that works.. the useless guest login boot into Safari mode
agent
You could try creating a new user account by tricking the computer to going through the initial setup process.<a href="http://www.theinstructional.com/guides/how-to-re-run-the-os-x-setup-assistant" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Instructions on re-running Apple Setup Assistant</a>By creating a new user this way you can check that the issue is specific to your user account, and not your installation of macOS. If this account can login you could copy the files from the other user and the issue is resolved.If not then you need to find a better internet connection and reinstall, someone could download the files onto a USB stick for you perhaps?
user
Unfortunately thé browser eats Line feeds on m'y Phone... I already had another user for emergencies..
agent
Sorry I don't understand what this has to do with anything?
user
Same thing.. the line completes to 75% then I get the black screen.
agent
What line completes, the issue with your Mac not the iPhone?
user
Can the system be downloaded from a Windows computer? It takes about 13 hours here but maybe a friend could try while he is on a long trip with his truck. The problem is I REALLY need to use my computer
agent
No you have to download it from macOS.
user
The line after login with the background photo goes to a certain spot................ since I can't do a linefeed here without posting I am doing dots........if I start in verbose mode it spills out the protocol at lightning speed.....simply can't read anything that fast and small...then it switches to the graphical screen ...goes black again...grrrrrr...is there a way to stop it going into the graphic mode so that I can READ what is going wrong
agent
I see. Yeah so you can’t use new line characters in these comments. And verbose mode is only good for troubleshooting boot issues which isn’t what your problem is. You have having login issues.Did you manage to create a new user account?
user
No. It keeps telling me my disk is read only. I have done fsck-ft and mount us 13 times it just doesn't let me delete the file Apple Setup done
agent
Did you put a space between the flags i.e. `/sbin/fsck -fy` then `/sbin/mount -uw /`
user
Strangely it tells me every time that option f is not implemented ..Let us [continue this discussion in chat](http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/73666/discussion-between-annette-flottwell-and-unknowndomain).Yes all done but still moint only gets me into read only file system
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406
user
I am on a MBP Early 2011, running Snow Leopard and am facing a strange issue. If I boot up my system and try to connect to my external display using the MDP->VGA adapter, System Settings won't show the correct resolution for the secondary display. I can see 1440x1050 and 1600x1200, and even if I hit Detect Displays, nothing will change.What is my workaround? Connect using MDP->DVI adapter, which will identify the correct resolution of the display (1680x1050), and then fall back to the VGA Adapter to surprisingly see the native resolution of my display listed!!Do you guys know what is going on here? Thank you in advance.
agent
I had the exact same issue, it's to do with OS X not getting a confirmation from the monitor of it's correct resolution and picking random defaults. Your workaround is pretty much the best way to go, or you can try <a href="http://www.madrau.com/SRXv3/html/SRX/About.html" rel="nofollow">SwitchResX</a> and try a virtual solution.
user
I took a look at this software and tried it for a few days, but it is a shareware, and I don't feel like paying 14 euros for a thing that such an advanced OS should do. But thanks for the heads up, makes me feel less alone and paranoid. ;)
agent
If it helps your work around is better than mine. I ended up using another machine, connecting via VNC and then managing to get the full resolution which was probably one of the worst workarounds in the history of workarounds.
user
Wheat, as soon as you decide to support a technology, it is expected that you do it right, specially when you are paying $50 to get an adaptor. At least you should state that the support for such an old-fashioned technology is not fully implemented.
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4496
user
As there are quite some rumors, about iOS 11 dropping support for 32 bit apps, I need to know, how to tell if an app is 64-bit. I know, that if it was published after february 2015, or if it was updated after june 2015, it has to have 64-bit support. But the app in question - IPELA Communication Mobile by Sony Corporation - was last updated on June 10th 2015. How can i be absolutely sure, that - just in case the rumors come true - I can still use it?
agent
The easy way for me is to install the app on iOS 10.3 (or later) device. Then open the settings app.tap generaltap Abouttap ApplicationsiOS will report on the possibility to update all 32 bit apps you have installed on the device by letting you tap to each entry in the App Store where the developer web site is another tap away. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgGvW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
user
Tapping "applications" doesn't do anything on my device. It's an iPhone SE with iOS 10.3
agent
iPhone SE clearly has 64 architecture in the processor - I wonder if it rolled out in 10.3.1 instead of 10.3 @kjubus. Any chance you can update to the current build of 10.3 ? Also, a clean reboot of the device can help if the settings app gets mixed up and doesn't compile the list as shown above.
user
Nope, doesn't work either on 10.3 or 10.3.1.If you can do it, could you install the IPELA app yourself and let me know? it's free on app store.
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1310
user
I'm trying to set up an Applescript to add the sender of a selected message in Apple Mail to a specific group in the Contacts app. By reconfiguring the <a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/24711/is-there-a-way-to-add-all-of-the-recipients-of-an-email-to-a-group-folder-in-con">code provided in this answer</a>, I worked up the following but it isn't working. Any suggestions on what I am doing wrong? tell application "Mail" set theMessage to selection tell application "Contacts" set theGroup to "_TEST" end tell set theSender to sender of theMessage tell application "Contacts" set theName to name of theSender set thePerson to make new person with properties {first name:name of theSender} add thePerson to theGroup end tell tell application "Contacts" to save end tell
agent
Try this, it will create a contact with proper first name, last name and email address:tell application "Mail"set theMessages to selectionif theMessages is not {} then -- check empty list set theSenderName to extract name from sender of item 1 of theMessages set nameArray to my split(theSenderName, " ") set theFirstName to item 1 of nameArray set theLastName to last item of nameArray set theEmail to extract address from sender of item 1 of theMessages tell application "Contacts" set theGroup to group "_TEST" set thePerson to make new person with properties {first name:theFirstName, last name:theLastName} make new email at end of emails of thePerson with properties {label:"Work", value:theEmail} add thePerson to theGroup save end tell end ifend tellon split(theString, theDelimiter) set oldDelimiters to AppleScript's text item delimiters set AppleScript's text item delimiters to theDelimiter set theArray to every text item of theString set AppleScript's text item delimiters to oldDelimiters return theArrayend splitThere were a few issues with your original attempt, here's how I worked around them.For starters, selection gives you a list of items (even if it's just a list of one), so you need to pick the first element from the selection.In mail, sender gives you a not very useful string with the name and email combined. extract name from and extract address from give you useful strings.The name string is the full name, but Contacts.app expects separate first and last names, so I split that string (using a handy function found <a href="http://erikslab.com/2007/08/31/applescript-how-to-split-a-string/" rel="nofollow">here</a>) to make a decent guess at first and last names. This may give unexpected results from strangely formatted names in emails.If you have any problems with this one, let me know and I'll see if I can fix them. In the future, it may be helpful to run the scripts in AppleScript Editor, and check the Event Log for details on what's failing (error messages are useful, if only to put into Google or give others a starting point for solving your problem).
user
that did the trick, thank you. The error log suggestion is helpful too, thanks. Your solution worked, but I get an error of "missing value" when I run it in the editor.
agent
Yeah, that's not an error so much as just not having a return value. The Applescript event log prints the return value of the last statement. In this case, it's just `save`, which returns nothing, if saved successfully. Nothing to worry about, but it does look ominous if you don't know why it's there.
user
Thanks for the clarification, slowly trying to understand AS syntax. That helps!
agent
No problem. AppleScript is a pretty nasty language IMO. The idea of an English-like scripting language sounds good on the surface, but you quickly realize it has serious problems. That said, it's still a useful way to get a lot of OS X-specific things accomplished.
user
I've discovered a limitation with this method: it creates a new entry every time. I have two groups, Pending and Current. I'd like to be able to add a new entry to Pending, but then later move that same contact to Current if/when their project goes forward.
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3471
user
I am trying to install an application through command line in OS X. This is what I am trying:hdiutil attach app.dmgcd /Volumes/appvolumeinstaller -pkg app.pkg -target "/"This works fine, however, I am not able to get an output from the installer command from which I can capture the amount of progress made and the time/amount remaining. I tried the verbose optioninstaller -verbose -pkg app.pkg -target "/"But this only prints output like installer: Optimizing system for installed software…....., etc, nothing about progress. But it surely knows about progress, because when I install the app via double clicking, the installer window that pops up shows a deterministic progress bar that progresses gradually and reaches full length when installation is complete.Any way I can capture the progress status through command line installer as well?
agent
Sending ^ + T to a running process in Terminal will request the 'status' of that process. This is a hold-over from early BSD and is cross-compatible with most shells (bash, csh, etc.). A more in-depth conversation with an eye towards Apple specifically can be found <a href="http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110810112318227" rel="nofollow">here</a>.
user
Sorry I did not understand you. How can I "send" `^+T` to a command in a shell script?
agent
With [redirection](http://sc.tamu.edu/help/general/unix/redirection.html). You'll want to look [here](http://stackoverflow.com/questions/21063765/get-pid-in-shell-bash) and [here](http://www.tldp.org/LDP/abs/html/io-redirection.html) to get started.Addendum: I may have misunderstood. If you're sitting looking at a terminal waiting for something to happen, type control and T (together) on the keyboard to get its status.
user
That was very interesting. But not applicable in my problem..
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5596
user
After I upgrade my MacBook Pro from 10.8 to 10.14, I found the icon texts display unnormally. They are too crowd. Anybody have any solution towards this problem?<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc3GZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/38wBK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
agent
There are likely a few things going on here. Firstly is that Apple's new default font is San Fransisco in Mojave (OS X 10.14.x) and I believe in 10.8 was Lucida Grande. So some of the text crowding you see could be caused by a different font with it's different kerning, etc.It is also possible, and judging from the screencaps you posted that some of your desktop/folder defaults were changed or reset when you did the upgrade.If you go to your desktop and select "Show view options" from the "View" menu a window will pop up allowing you to change a lot of the items that will effect what you see on your desktop. You can do the same in a Finder window but I'm sticking with the Desktop here for sake of simplicity.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6GnX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>The things you may want to fiddle with are the grid spacing and the text size.The grid spacing will move icons closer together and farther apart. So if you have long-ish file names Finder will squish the text when the icons are closer together.The text size will also affect how Finder shows file/folder names. Bigger fonts will cause the Finder to try and fit longer file names in smaller spaces (grid spacing) and squish the words/letters together. The trade-off here is that smaller font sizes can be harder to read.In your particular case I would increase the grid spacing and decrease the font size substantially and then see if things are looking better.
user
Thanks for your reply. I agree with you that it is likely the font issue. BTW, simply tweak the view option does not work.
agent
If this is an acceptable solution please accept it as the correct answer.
user
Finally, I give up and install the new system MAC OS 14.3 from scratch.
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4136
user
Two of my USB sticks (Lexar and PNY, both 32 GB) are not getting recognized correctly by macOS Sierra. Both worked before (one formatted with NTFS, the other with FAT32); they were then used as installation media for upgrading a couple of MacBooks to macOS Sierra.They have since been tested, getting reformatted by Linux as well as Windows 7 between tests, but the following output is always the same using diskutil list:/dev/disk3 (external, physical): #: TYPE NAME SIZE IDENTIFIER 0: Apple_partition_scheme *32.0 GB disk3 1: Apple_partition_map 4.1 KB disk3s1 2: Apple_HFS 311.3 KB disk3s2After plugging them into the MacBook they are still working on Windows and Linux (they were tested by writing the whole stick and verifying the data). I also deleted the partitions using fdisk in Linux.Is there a way to repair this behavior? And if not, is there a way I can redefine how the partitions are getting assigned by macOS so that I can still manually mount them?
agent
There's nothing wrong with what you are seeing. That's the partition scheme for your bootable USB. When you format it, you are not deleting the partition, just "blanking" the active partition.Formatting a partition is not the same as deleting the partition.To get back to a "single" partition (this is what I am assuming you want to do), issue this command in diskutildiskutil partitionDisk /dev/disk3 1 GPT HFS+ NAME 100%This command will permanently delete anything you have on the device. Make sure you are using the correct device identifierBe sure to replace "NAME" with the name you want to give to the USB.Your drive partition map will be wiped, and the HFS+ (Mac OS Extended) file system installed.What I suspect happened in your case is that you didn't "write" the new partition scheme to the USB. This is done by issuing the "w" command. <a href="https://www.linuxhelp.com/fdisk-command/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Linuxhelp</a> has an excellent tutorial on fdisk<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pNLoCm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>More info can be found by typing <a href="https://developer.apple.com/legacy/library/documentation/Darwin/Reference/ManPages/man8/diskutil.8.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">man diskutil</a>
user
Thanks! Forgot to write that I deleted the partitions using fdisk in linux and made sure there was no partition left before writing and creating a new one. I will try to add it.
agent
When you created the new partition in Linux, did you remember to *write* it to the device? It's the "w" command in `fdisk`.
user
I did write the partition table, and the changed partition table was displayed under linux but the old setup under macOS. Solved it by filling the whole stick with zeroes, including partition table. After partitioning the zeroed stick it works on all systems again, including the MacBook.
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3732
user
I am Looping for an iOS app supporting "document sharing" which would allow me to print to a Samba printer.Use case:open a document (e.g., a PDF) with the app (via the iOS document sharing/document picker functionality, see note below)print to a Samba printer (with authentication).An example:open the Dropbox Appchoose a PDF and click on the share buttonin the list of apps able to open a PDF there should be (among others) the printing appthe printing app should then send it to a Samba shared printerDoes such an application exist?I am looking for an iOS app able to print on an existing infrastructure, not to build an infrastructure to share a printer via AirPrint.Note: Document sharing is a feature since iOS 8 which allows application to provide documents to other apps via document picker. You can for example open Word file in the Dropbox App using the Microsoft word AppNote 2: I am not looking for a specific app for a single printer/model but a generic one supporting a Samba printer with a PS or PCL gener
agent
If you're asking whether there's an iOS app that can somehow 'see' any Samba printer and print to it, my response is that even your question states: "print to a shared Samba printer". My point here is that if it's already a shared Samba printer and its shared in a way so iOS devices can print to it, then any iOS app that can open a PDF document could do what you're wanting (i.e. Print to the Samba printer).Put another way, for an iPhone/iPad etc to print to a Samba printer it must be able to 'see' the printer first. So, unless it's one that supports AirPrint natively, you'd need to use some software to make it visible to iOS devices. There's quite a few options out there (e.g. <a href="http://www.netputing.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.netputing.com</a>) that people can use to make their shared printers visible to iOS devices.Otherwise, as far as I know there is no iOS app out there that can print to a Samba printer that it can't actually see.I hope this helps, one way or another.
user
There is no need to see the printer with an automatic discovery. It can be configured knowing the address of the server sharing it. As usual on a desktop machineAnd my question does not mention a "shared samba printer". An app supporting their document sharing API from iOS printing to a Samba printer
agent
Okay, maybe you could revise your question to be more specific, as it's currently open to interpretation. And, with due respect, your second bullet point does refer to printing to a shared printer.
user
Yes, but a samba printer is shared by definition.I edited the question
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1603
user
I need to be able to SSH into a Mac (Mountain Lion) and check if ARD is running and if so, what are the settings. Basically, I need the equivalent of going to System Preferences -> Sharing -> Remote Management and visually inspecting the options set there. But I need it on the Terminal so I can do this via SSH.Note, I am not asking how to set these options (e.g. through the ARD "kickstart" executable), I am asking how, once it is running, to determine what options it is running under.ps -axlww | grep ARD shows only /System/Library/CoreServices/RemoteManagement/ARDAgent.app/Contents/MacOS/ARDAgent without any flags shown.Is there a plist file where this is stored? So far I've checked .../Library/Preferences/com.apple.ARDAgent.plist/Library/Preferences/com.apple.RemoteManagement.plist... and similar files within the user's ~/Library/Preferences/ directory, and they do not seem to contain anything useful.
agent
I have a possible solution for you, I say 'possible' because it's not very reliable (<a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/93567/system-preferences-applescript-using-osascript-cannot-select-its-window">I submitted a question on it earlier</a>).One other thing, you'll have to "Enable access for assistive devices", I don't know why. So here's the AppleScript:tell application "System Preferences" reveal pane "com.apple.preferences.sharing"end telltell application "System Events" set SSCBrow to 2 -- Set to the row corresponding to Screen Sharing tell process "System Preferences" set screen_sharing_toggle to value of (checkbox 1 of row SSCBrow of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window 1) as boolean end tellend telltell application "System Preferences" Quitend tellset newvar to screen_sharing_toggleIf you save that as, say, checkScrShr you can run it from the command line as:osascript checkScrShrIt will echo 'true' if Screen Sharing is enabled, 'false' if it isn't.
user
By "unreliable", do you mean that there are intermittent failures of the script?
agent
That's right: It will either tell you correctly whether or not Screen Sharing is running, or it will return an error. One other thing: the script says row 2, make sure row 2 is where your Screen Sharing is in the Sharing pane.@Dave I've updated the code so it's clearer
user
Thanks. My experience is that there is a general issue with OS X's new security model and AppleScript. Depending on conditions outside of the Terminal environment, an AppleScript may or may not run correctly, falsely complaining about syntax errors and whatnot. Poor release engineering on Apple's part and I still haven't found a solution.Going back to the main issue, though, I'm looking more for a way to determine not just that it is running, but what configuration it is running with. Thanks for your AppleScript example, however, it might provide a lead.
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2441
user
I recently used an app to enter a voucher code and then redeem it to get free stuff. But it only allows 1 code/ phone. I was wondering, what do the iOS apps use when identifying a phone/user?
agent
There are a number of methods an app can use to uniquely identify a device or user.Transitory (persistent whilst app is installed)Unique identifier generated by the app and saved in a property list or other equivalent storage in the app sandbox's Library or Documents folder.Hashed login or equivalent to determine user.CFUUID (<a href="https://developer.apple.com/library/ios/documentation/CoreFoundation/Reference/CFUUIDRef/index.html" rel="nofollow">https://developer.apple.com/library/ios/documentation/CoreFoundation/Reference/CFUUIDRef/index.html</a>)identifierForVendor (<a href="https://developer.apple.com/library/ios/documentation/UIKit/Reference/UIDevice_Class/index.html#//apple_ref/occ/instp/UIDevice/identifierForVendor" rel="nofollow">https://developer.apple.com/library/ios/documentation/UIKit/Reference/UIDevice_Class/index.html#//apple_ref/occ/instp/UIDevice/identifierForVendor</a>)PermanentMAC address of device (not recommended by Apple for these purposes).Advertising Identifier (can be reset in Settings; <a href="https://developer.apple.com/LIBRARY/ios/documentation/AdSupport/Reference/ASIdentifierManager_Ref/index.html#//apple_ref/occ/instp/ASIdentifierManager/advertisingIdentifier" rel="nofollow">https://developer.apple.com/LIBRARY/ios/documentation/AdSupport/Reference/ASIdentifierManager_Ref/index.html#//apple_ref/occ/instp/ASIdentifierManager/advertisingIdentifier</a>).DepreciatedUDID (<a href="http://www.theverge.com/2013/3/21/4133288/apple-to-finally-stop-accepting-apps-that-use-outdated-udid-device-identifier-may-1st" rel="nofollow">http://www.theverge.com/2013/3/21/4133288/apple-to-finally-stop-accepting-apps-that-use-outdated-udid-device-identifier-may-1st</a>)
user
alright, great. Thanks for the answer.. so is there actually a way to 'fool' the app that I am using a different phone? I already tried changing my MAC address, my UDID and my app store user account..
agent
@Mike It depends entirely on which method the app is using. It could even be obtaining your Game Center username and using that! If your device is jailbroken, you may be able to override the method that determines the unique identifier with a tweak such as Flex.
user
thanks for the tip. I tried Flex 2, but it doesn't have any options for the McDonald's app. I guess I'll just leave it alone then... but I don't like when technology wins over me :D
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144
user
I just finished downloading my copy of Lion and wanted to install it on a new second partition. I freed up just over 50 GBs from my hard drive and am now stuck trying to shrink my existing partition. I'm using the Disk Utility, but am continually getting: Partition failed Partition failed with the error: The partition cannot be resized. Try reducing the amount of change in the size of the partition.I've tried just resizing by 1 gigabyte and it still fails. Any free tools to fix this? Thanks.
agent
When I ran into this problem, I used <a href="http://www.coriolis-systems.com/iDefrag.php" rel="nofollow">iDefrag</a> to defragment the volume, and that let me shrink it. Unfortunately it's not free.It has since occurred to me that it might work better to dismount the partition before shrinking. If you want to try this, you'll need to boot from something else, like your O S X install DVD.
user
Thanks Gordon. I've heard of iDefrag but don't really want to spend the $30.
agent
Kevin: I know, it'd be a perfectly reasonable price -- if you were going to use it more than once. I'l add some ideas to my second option: empty trash, boot from DVD, open Terminal, clear out /Volumes/yourvol/private/var/vm, .../var/tmp, .../var/folders, and .../tmp (but don't delete any of the folders themselves); THEN try shrinking it.
user
Thanks for the hints. Unfortunately I had tried these steps already to no avail.
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4490
user
My father created a family membership for apple music, and I created an apple account (icloud.com) for that purpose (I'm in the family group).I'm trying to login from the Apple Music Android app, and keep getting The code you entered is not valid. Try again. in the account review part.What should I do to set it up correctly? It's a new account, I've never used Apple services before and I also don't have any products except this membership. Should I login to an Apple device, download iTunes for my PC, or anything else? What am I missing?2018 Update: After more than a year, I still haven't got a response from the customer support. It won't happen ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
agent
An Apple Music Family Membership requires iCloud Family Sharing to be set up.According to Apple: Family Sharing requires a personal Apple ID signed in to iCloud and iTunes. Music, movies, TV shows and books can be downloaded on up to 10 devices per account, five of which can be computers. iOS 8 or later and OS X Yosemite or later are required to set up or join a Family Sharing group, and are recommended for full functionality. Not all content is eligible for Family Sharing. Content can be hidden by family members; hidden content is not available for download. Content downloaded from family members or acquired via redemption codes is not subject to Ask to Buy. iCloud requires iOS 5 or later on iPhone 3Gs or later, iPod touch (3rd generation or later), iPad Pro, iPad Air or later, iPad or later, or iPad mini or later; a Mac computer with OS X Lion 10.7.5 or later; or a PC with Windows 7 or Windows 8 (Outlook 2007 or later or an up-to-date browser is required for accessing email, contacts and calendars). Some features require iOS 10 and macOS Sierra. Some features require a Wi-Fi connection. Some features are not available in all countries. Access to some services is limited to 10 devices.Since you're saying you're already in the family group, I expect the problem you're having is that you're using an Android device (the above seems to imply you need to be on macOS, iOS or Windows). I would do the following:Contact Apple to check if there is a way around this conundrum and, if not,Send <a href="http://www.apple.com/feedback/apple-music.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">feedback</a> to Apple as well as an email to support@apple.com (that's the email address they use for support re their Android apps).I would think that since Apple offers the Apple Music Android app that this is an unintended consequence of how things are currently set up, so sending feedback is the only way of getting things changed.
user
Thanks for detailed your reply! I've just installed iTunes on windows and tried to connect with it, and also tried to login to an iPhone 5 device - but I'm still getting the message `The code you entered is not valid` from both iTunes on windows and iPhone 5. The message is received in the `Review Your Address` section in the login processI'll try sending them an email, and post and update later
agent
Just had a thought - are you and your dad by any chance in different countries? Or, more to the point, have iTunes accounts for different iTunes stores? If so that would explain the issue - a family group has to belong to the same iTunes Store (i.e. country). If not, it'll be interesting to see what response you get. It may also be worth contacting Apple Support by phone - you'll probably get a faster resolution that way.
user
Interesting, although we are in the same country, but I have no idea how to account is set. I've sent them an email, lets see what they say about it!I tried to create an apple id with my gmail account, and now everything works ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
agent
Wow, that is interesting. Glad you got it working! :) As an aside, can you think of anything that happened differently when you created your gmail account Apple ID? And has Apple responded yet?
user
(Apple haven't responded yet). I think that this time I finished the review process before joining the family group - Created the account, logged in from iTunes on windows and only then joined the family sharing
agent
Well, when you have the time it may be worth adding an _answer_ to that effect as it's most likely the solution to your problem and may help others. Although you could wait a while to see what Apple says when they respond, in case it's also worth adding to your answer.
user
I thought about waiting for their answer, and then sum it up as an answer here. Thanks for the help and interest!
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4259
user
I am trying to install iTerm2 terminal emulator on macOS Sierra 10.12.1 using Homebrew.I tried to download iTerm2 from its main site. However, the page is taking too long to respond. So, after searching the internet for alternates, I found and ran this command : brew cask install iterm2I am new to MacOS and would appreciate if someone can help me out with this.Here is the traceback:kshitij10496@Kshitijs-MacBook-Pro ~ brew cask install iterm2==> Satisfying dependenciescomplete==> Downloading https://iterm2.com/downloads/stable/iTerm2-3_0_12.zipcurl: (28) Operation timed out after 300976 milliseconds with 0 out of 0 bytes receivedError: Download failed on Cask 'iterm2' with message: Download failed: https://iterm2.com/downloads/stable/iTerm2-3_0_12.zipThe incomplete download is cached at /Users/kshitij10496/Library/Caches/Homebrew/Cask/iterm2--3.0.12.zip.incompleteError: nothing to install
agent
Homebrew had the same problem you had when you tried to download iTerm2 directly from its website - I imagine the website was temporarily offline (it seems to be OK now - I've just downloaded iTerm2 successfully).I'd suggest trying again. If it still doesn't work, check the website on <a href="http://downforeveryoneorjustme.com/iterm2.com" rel="noreferrer">downforeveryoneorjustme.com</a>, and wait until the website is back up.
user
Thanks for your answer. I agree that http://iterm2.com is up. However, the download site : https://iterm2.com/downloads/stable/iTerm2-3_0_12.zip is down. Is there any way I can work around this ?
agent
In that case, I think the problem may be at your end (or between you and iTerm.com) - I've just re-downloaded iTerm2 and it worked OK the second time as well. You could try checking with your ISP - mention that ordinary web browsing works OK, and that you checked on downforeveryoneorjustme.com and the site is up, but you still can't reach it.
user
Thanks a lot for your advice. I changed my connection to a different ISP and it worked ! I find this a bit weird though.
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I forward my university email address to my GMail account, so I don’t have my university IMAP set up as an account on my iPad (and I don’t want to, because then I’d receive those mails twice). Still, I want to send email using that address, via my university’s SMTP server.Is there any way to add another sender address to an account and assign it a different SMTP server than the account’s default SMTP in the iPad’s email client?If not, can you recommend another email client for the iPad that has this capability?
agent
<a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4519" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuring additional outgoing mail servers</a>from the Apple support websites has detail instructions:Go to Settings → Mail, Contacts, Calendars.Tap the Mail account for which you would like to change the settings.If your account is configured to sync Notes or other items, you may need to tap Account Info on the following screen as well.On the Account Info screen, locate the Outgoing Mail Server section and tap the existing SMTP entry.A list of SMTP servers will appear, with the Primary Server and then Other SMTP Servers. Go to Other SMTP servers → Add Server....Enter the additional SMTP server information. Host Name is required. Tap Save.
user
Yes, but that page does not explain how to assign the server to an address. It sounds more like “if the default SMTP is down/unreachable, it will try to use the other one instead”. What I want is to always use it for mails I send from one specific address (and always use the default server for the primary address).
agent
Whenever you compose a new mail, you may choose from which server/address to send it from by tapping on "From:".
user
That popup menu only shows addresses for me, not servers.
agent
@Lukas Each email address is bound to a server in the Mail app.
user
And how does that binding work? I can add new email addresses (by entering them comma-separated into the account’s Email field) and new SMTP servers (via the method you described) independently from each other. Also, if I send an email from my university address with the university’s SMTP server set up via that method, it still uses GMail’s SMTP server (according to the mail headers).
agent
@Lukas If you send mail from a different SMTP server, the receiver of your mail can only see the email address related to this email service. If you just change the name of the address (comma solution), the mail is not sent via a different server. Several mail clients (e.g. Outlook) will be able to see both your email addresses: The one related to the SMTP server and the alias. Apple's mail client only shows the alias - i think. In general it's better to send emails using different servers, not just alias.
user
Yes, and I want to send email using a different server – I just don’t see any way to do that without setting up a completely separate email account (the method you linked to above only adds a new SMTP as a backup for the default one and doesn’t allow to specify an email address for use with that server). GMail’s web interface and Sparrow, for example, allow this (using their Send Email As/Alias features and then setting a custom SMTP for an address), but I guess Apple’s client doesn’t. Anyway, thanks for trying to help, appreciate it. :)
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I found several long lists with defaults, settings, but never a complete one with a reference to developers.apple.com. Is there any such list to find? If not, which is the longest/systematic/complete list with defaults?Update:I'm interested more in the system administration point of view on the collection of the defaults settings, rather than in the developing an applicationUpdate2:Interesting could be something like TinkerTool collection in the form of Application, but using only the terminalUpdate3:e.g. all defaults keys from NSGlobalDomain
agent
I believe <a href="/~https://github.com/mathiasbynens/dotfiles/blob/master/.osx" rel="nofollow">this</a> may be what you're looking for.
user
:) this is what I already found and noticed in the post with (many/several lists). But they are only user collection without any references (and there is not so many NSGlobalDomain settings listed). Still thank you very much for trying to help!
agent
Well, it was a good exercise for me as well. I have use for a compilation such as this. I think O'Reilly should adapt a Pocket Reference on this subject. (I'd write one myself if I had the time.)
user
hm, I think I saw somewhere a book by O'Reilly "osx for the unix geeks". a good point to search references
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user
I have a directory of AVI files that I would like to combine into a single AVI file. These AVI files come from a dash cam and have two video tracks -- a front camera and a rear camera.I tried to use the suggestion <a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/114780/19830">here</a> to combine the videos. Specifically:ffmpeg -f concat -i <(for f in $PWD/*.avi;do echo "file '$f'";done) -c copy output.aviThis works great for the first (front) video track but completely removes the second (rear) video track.How can I concatenate these files and retain both video tracks? Alternatively, is there a way I can specify the video track to concatenate?
agent
Basically what you need to do is demultiplex each file, then concatenate the resulting files. There is a way to do this with the <a href="https://trac.ffmpeg.org/wiki/Concatenate#filter" rel="nofollow">concat filter</a>, but it requires re-encoding everything as it goes.So you need to do two operations. First, demultiplex. (Note this is untested with ffmpeg, as I don't have any video files to test with, but should theoretically work.)I=0;J=1;for f in $PWD/*.avi;do ffmpeg -i "$f" -map 0:v:0 -codec copy output$I.avi -map 0:v:1 -codec copy output$J.avi && I=$(($I+1)) && J=$(($J+1));doneThen you can use the concat demuxer as usual:ffmpeg -f concat -i <(for f in $PWD/*.avi;do echo "file '$f'";done) -c copy output.avi
user
This worked great. The only change I made is: I=0;J=1;for f in $PWD/*.avi;do ffmpeg -i "$f" -map 0:v:0 -codec copy front$I.avi -map 0:v:1 -codec copy back$J.avi && I=$(($I+1)) && J=$(($J+1));done and then a corresponding filename change to the concatenation command. I'd edit, but I don't have the necessary reputation. Thanks!
agent
If you do that, you can lose `J=1;` and `J=$(($J+1));` and change `back$J.avi` to `back$I.avi` - with different output filenames, the number can be the same for both.
user
Right. Nice simplification.
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647
user
I use a Garmin Forerunner 405CX GPS watch to track my running.At the moment I have to use an ANT+ USB dongle to get the data (GPX) from my watch on to my computer/laptop.I upload the data to the Endomondo and Runkeeper websites either by way of a Firefox/ActiveX plugin or by manually uploading the GPX file.I want to remove the laptop from this process so is there a dongle (or similar) that will allow me to perform the same process(es) directly on the iPad?
agent
There are a few devices I found that have been recently added to the market<a href="https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=103887&ra=true" rel="nofollow">Garmin Ant+ adaptor for iPhone</a><a href="http://www.wahoofitness.com/Products/Wahoo-Fitness-Wahoo-Key-for-iPhone.asp" rel="nofollow">Wahoo Key for iPhone</a>Both allow you to connect and record in real time exercise data in association with their and other third party apps (<a href="https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=104231" rel="nofollow">Garmin Fit</a> and Wahoo have a list <a href="http://www.wahoofitness.com/Apps/Apps.asp" rel="nofollow">here</a>)What I have not been able to confirm is whether it will provide upload facility from devices after being out of range as you want. My assumption is yes it can, since you can get swim watch data entry.All the products were originally designed for iPhone and I don't see any issue with running them on an ipad
user
I presume the app or website I want to upload the data to would need to support input/upload via the app or via iPad Safari though?
agent
that would entirely depend on the app used. I suggest you research the apps and the dongles a bit more to ensure that this is a valid answer, but it's a little outside of the Ask Different remit
user
I think I'll take a look at the two suggested dongles and maybe post in the Endomondo and Runkeeper forums too. Thanks.
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1980
user
I'm thinking about updating a bit my Macbook Pro mid 2010 adding to it 8Gb of RAM and maybe a new hard drive, a solid one (SSD) of probably 240Gb.Which SSD would you recommend me? I'm looking for one compatible with TRIM because as far as I know that's the best way to go in order to keep the performance of the SSD after some time.I've also checked <a href="http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/2010/09/revisiting-solid-state-hard-drives.html" rel="nofollow">some performances reviews</a> and it seems there's a big difference between some of them. (or there was, as the article is from 2010)I was checking the models Apple used in its days for the firsts Macbook Pro with SSD, but I believe there are better options now in the market.Is it relevant that my laptop is from 2010? Should I take that into account for something?I believe I shouldn't experiment any problem with this change of hard drive and will improve the laptop performance as well as the hard drive life. Am I wrong?I'm afraid of the possibility of having problems with it for compatibility issues or any other thing.Thanks!
agent
I recommend the Crucial M500 SSDs. They're solid, reliable, and fast. I've replaced the OEM HDD on both my 2008 aluminum MacBook and 2011 MacBook Pro with them and have had 0 issues so far, they work great. Below are some links for your perusal.<a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00BQ8RHJ2" rel="nofollow">Buy them on Amazon</a><a href="http://www.crucial.com/store/ProductMarketing_m500.aspx" rel="nofollow">Manufacturer Information</a>
user
Some other people is recommending me the Samsung 840.Here's a comparison: http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-840-Pro-256GB-vs-Crucial-M500-240GB/1408vs1551
agent
I can only honestly recommend what I've used and can vouch for :) Crucial has also been in the SSD/memory business/market longer than Samsung has, btw.
user
you are right. I also checked it in an [Apple discussions topic](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5445008?start=00&tstart=0) and it seems the controllers of the Crucial M500 are much better for a Mac computer.
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user
How do I know if an update requires restart in macOS Sierra? I just updated iTunes and read the description of the update, but couldn't find any mention of a restart required. After a moment the computer restarted without a warning. Luckily, I wasn't in the middle of anything important, but I'd like to avoid such forced restarts in the future.Edit: There was also a macOS Sierra update today. In the figure below, there's no mention of a restart required. I also followed the two links, but found no mention there either. I'm pretty sure that the info shown here was the same prior to the update.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTAjD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
agent
When you look at the Updates list in the Mac App Store, it will indicate in the info if a restart is required. Below is an example of this:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QfEeA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>You will see the words Restart Required followed by an icon of a white triangle within a grey circle (looks like a reverse play button).Prior to installing the update, just check the info against each update to see whether any of them require a restart.Security updates and OS updates usually require a restart. Most other apps don't.
user
Thanks for your answer, but I've edited my question and provided a counterexample. I was expecting a restart, of course, ensuing a system update.
agent
Yes, but the screenshot you've added to your question was taken of the update **after** it was installed. This will no longer indicate that a restart was required. The indication of a restart being required is only present _before_ you install it. In addition, I also know that sometimes people click on Update All (in the case of multiple updates) and get caught out because one of them required a restart. So you really do need to check all of them if choosing to install multiple updates simultaneously. I've updated my answer to show you an example.
user
Prior to the update I really tried to find a notification of a restart, but I guess I somehow managed to miss that. Well, thank you anyway! Now I know where to look in the future.
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user
This Macbook Pro (15" circa 2012) is giving me trouble. After a slight water spill incident, I removed and replaced the hard drive, optical drive and battery (warning sticker ignored). After another day drying I turned it on. However, the battery is not recognised, everything's happening slower and the mouse is really jumpy. I've also noticed the CPU load from the Activity Monitor remains steady at 80%-90% for the System (kernel_task). I'd like to reset the SMC to see what happens, but it doesn't seem to be resetting. The PRAM/NVRAM reset is working, just not the SMC reset (I'm using shift-control-option + power). Is there another way to do the SMC reset? Maybe open it up and poke around some more?
agent
In the <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295" rel="nofollow">Apple Support article on SMC reset</a> it reads "On MagSafe power adapters, the LED might change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.". Other than that SMC reset does nothing <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7lSJzQ8H9U" rel="nofollow">visible</a>. So probably the reset is working.It seems like the battery is dead. In that case the Mac will throttle the CPU to reduce power consumption. This explains also the high load. Since the battery is necessary to buffers peak loads, the MacBook relies on it to operate properly.You must replace your battery.
user
I'm just hesitant replacing the battery, when there might be other things going on, and the whole thing is a write-off. I was hoping a SMC reset might reveal more.Tried a new battery. Same issue.
agent
@Shane Sorry to hear...That probably means the logic board is damaged :(@Shane You can run Apple diagnostics by pressing D at startup. But anyway you will have to bring it in.
user
I've run diagnostics and it says nothing's wrong. On the board I notice some salty calcification between the (i 625 9AHRTZ) and the (f DCO8A FDMS 0349) components. Tried dabbing it with methylated spirits, but that didn't do anything.Turns out the i625 9AHRTZ is the Intersil battery charger controller and if it's fried, it won't easily be refitted. But a short near here does make sense. I've already shifted onto a new device, so I won't be spending any more money on this one. In the meantime I'll look into board cleaning methods.
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user
System Software Overview: System Version: macOS 10.13.6 (17G3025) Kernel Version: Darwin 17.7.0I would like to capture only the content of a window, without the menu. In other words, I would like to capture this:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SnPYP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>instead than this:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uFF8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>I can use Cmd+Ctrl+Shift+4 and then resize the capture area to just the contents of the window, but that's not very convenient...isn't there a shortcut which doesn't involve selecting areas with the mouse?
agent
I'm not sure how convenient this would be for your workflow...Switch to fullscreen.From the View menu, uncheck "Always show toolbar in full screen"Use Cmd ⌘ Shift ⇧ 4 then tap the spacebar & click in the windowThis will [as always] take a snap of the entire window - but in this case it will leave out the toolbar entirely.Scrollbars will hide or show depending on your setting in System Prefs > General<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjHmd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
user
hmmm...good idea, forcing the window to be fullscreen sometimes makes the resulting image too small to be readable. Let's see if someone else has an alternative idea.
agent
How does it make it too small?... it's the size of your screen. Any bigger & it wouldn't fit.. the image I posted, btw, was resized before upload; the original is 2560x1440
user
There's a misunderstanding here: I mean that, if I have to enlarge the window to fullscreen before capturing the screen, then the result image is very large with respect to the characters (but still readable, because I have a high resolution monitor). **However**, I then have to resize the image to a smaller size if I want to put it in a document or an email, and at this point, the characters become quite small. Anyway, even if it's not ideal, this procedure answers my question, thus I'm accepting it.
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2451
user
I'm running a setup with the latest Retina MacBook Pro, a Windows desktop and a single external monitor. Both machines are outputting display to a HDMI switcher, which connects to the monitor. I can switch between the sources with a button on the switcher.The problem is that everytime I switch to the Windows machine, the Mac goes to sleep since it's in clamshell mode and it has no display connected. The VPN connection I use for work on the Mac keeps disconnecting because the machine goes to sleep.I've tried fiddling with the power saving settings and other third party programs (including Caffeine and NoSleep) that are supposed to keep the machine awake, but none worked so far.I am running Mavericks 10.9.5 on the latest MacBook Pro model (SSD).Any ideas on how to always keep the machine awake, even when I switch the display to the Windows desktop?
agent
<a href="http://semaja2.net/projects/insomniaxinfo/" rel="nofollow">InsomniaX</a> is a third party program designed to do just that: disabling the sleep mode on a Apple laptops.The program can prevent the Mac entering sleep mode from closing the lid or just idling (or both, of course). It's also possible to disable the sleep mode as per timer, after which the sleep mode kicks in normally.
user
Hi, InsomniaX doesn't seem to work either. The machine seems to be awake, but the VPN client thinks it's not. It disconnects the session because it thinks the machine has been suspended. Would it behave like that because when I switch displays from the Mac > Windows (and back), OS X is temporarily suspending while it detects the display changes?
agent
Hmm, could be. Are there any retry-options in the VPN? Which VPN are you using?
user
I am using the Cisco AnyConnect client. Reconnection is disabled on the VPN server, so I have no control over it.
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user
I have an app in the app store and I'm trying to link to it on my webpage. I've got the link working on any standard browser, but when I open the website in WeChat and use the link, it does nothing. This problem is not occuring on my Android device, only on iOS. So I think what's happening is iOS thinks that the link is an ad and won't allow the page to open the app store.I've tried just plain old <a href="http://itunes.com/apps/appname" rel="nofollow">http://itunes.com/apps/appname</a>, but this seems to attempt a redirect as well.So is there a way to link a user to the app store without opening the app-store app?
agent
I prefer smart app banners for the best mobile safari experience.Have a look at <a href="https://developer.apple.com/library/safari/documentation/AppleApplications/Reference/SafariWebContent/PromotingAppswithAppBanners/PromotingAppswithAppBanners.html" rel="nofollow">https://developer.apple.com/library/safari/documentation/AppleApplications/Reference/SafariWebContent/PromotingAppswithAppBanners/PromotingAppswithAppBanners.html</a>Basically you insert code in the header area:<meta name="apple-itunes-app" content="app-id=myAppStoreID, affiliate-data=myAffiliateData, app-argument=myURL">
user
The problem is that this is opening inside WeChat's browser. Would clicking this banner send them to the app store or through the browser?
agent
@Csteele5 Good luck using web view in WeChat. Your banner renders on iOS 9 but not on iOS 8.4 for me, but the sites are slow to render at the moment. I'd put the download link on all safari / desktop or not, but that's your call. The URL should get intercepted by mobile safari and dump the user into the App Store app on iOS (and that's what I'm seeing)
user
Right, but in the WeChat browser it pretty much blocks any attempts to go to iTunes or the app store. I wonder if it thinks it's an ad or something. Have you had problems using WeChat Web view before?
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user
As the title suggests, I'm using a mac book pro with os x 10.9.2 and I connect to the network through the ethernet adapter thunderbolt.Is there a way to get a reference icon in the menu bar, as is the case for the wifi?I'd prefer not to use applications such as iStatsMenu or similar ..
agent
Did you try this from: <a href="https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5598818" rel="nofollow">https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5598818</a>I quote Accordingly, I went into /System/Library/CoreServices/MenuExtras/ then double clicked on WWAN.menu for cable broadband. I think for DSL you'll need to click on PPPoE.menu.Give it a try, otherwise you probably need third party apps like iStatsMenu
user
Thank you, if I add the PPPoE menu icon appears, but says it can not find the PPPoE settings, so you do not need to practically nothing. I think I will be forced to lean against third-party apps, even if they are all a bit 'suck!
agent
What happens if you click the WWAN.menu item?
user
Nothing happens if i click WWAN.menu
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user
I am looking to get the new 12″ MacBook and as a result I would like to know the clock speed (in GHz) my current MacBook Air (late 2010) is running at so I know the processor on the MacBook will cope.At the moment I know my processor running at the lowest frequency is 1.86GHz (as shown in System Information) and when I look in Activity Monitor as suggested <a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/103237/how-to-monitor-cpu-core-usage">here</a> it only shows me the CPU usage and not the current clock speed. I have also looked at <a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/1270/can-i-see-my-cpu-and-memory-usage-meters-in-the-menu-bar">this</a> suggestion but again it does not show me my processing frequency.The reason why I want to find out the current speed my MacBook Air is running at is because Turbo Charge (explained <a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/176269/112840">here</a>) can have it's clock run at various speeds from moment to moment. I have also tried Intel's power gadget software as suggested by @grgarside however my Air's CPU is not supported as shown here.
agent
There may be a way to view your CPU's clock speed at this exact second, but as mentioned elsewhere, it is a constantly changing variable (due to Turbo Charge). Comparing clock speeds between different CPU generations, especially nearly five years apart, is also not at all useful.A much more useful approach would be to use benchmarks. MacWorld uses Speedmark 8 to test most (if not all) Mac models that are produced, and there is a list <a href="http://www.macworld.com/article/2082044/how-we-test-speedmark-9-mac-benchmarks.html?page=4" rel="nofollow">here</a> of the results. They "take the performance results from the 15 individual tests that make up Speedmark and boil them down to a single number", resulting in an easily-compared list which reviews multiple facets of the computer (not just the CPU). That list does not yet have the new MacBook models on it, but it likely will soon.You can also compare scores on the GeekBench browser, which directly measure the CPU's performance. Your model's benchmarks are <a href="http://browser.primatelabs.com/geekbench3/search?dir=desc&q=model%3A%22MacBook+Air+%28Late+2010%29%22+frequency%3A1860&sort=multicore_score" rel="nofollow">here</a> and average about 1950. The Core M-5Y70 processor, which powers the new MacBook, is available at 1.1 GHz, 1.2 GHz, or 1.3 GHz. The only benchmarks currently available are for the <a href="http://browser.primatelabs.com/geekbench3/search?dir=desc&q=Intel+Core+M+5Y70&sort=multicore_score" rel="nofollow">1.3 GHz version of the CPU</a>, and the score for that averages about two times higher than your model's score. (Hence why the clock speed is irrelevant when comparing different generations of CPUs.)A score of two times higher on GeekBench indicates two times the performance. Even accounting for the slower base models at 1.1 GHz and 1.2 GHz, performance will still be significantly increased versus your existing MacBook Air.
user
Thank you for your informative answer. Are you meaning the new Core-M processor is more powerful then my MacBook air 2010 processor?!?
agent
Yes as stated above, up to four times more powerful, depending on the clock speed.
user
So does this mean that if the MacBook Air 2010 does me fine then the new MacBook should cope with what I want it to do?
agent
Correct. ------
user
Cool. Defiantly getting it on the 10th then!
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4826
user
KeyboardViewer app is saved from this AppleScript.on run {input, parameters} if application "KeyboardViewer" is running then quit application "KeyboardViewer" else activate application "KeyboardViewer" end if return inputend runDock toggle save. Adding shortcut to above, needs some work... Syntax error Can’t set application "KeyboardViewer" to some object. Access not allowed.tell application "System Events" set application "KeyboardViewer" to (keystroke "K" using control down)end tell
agent
If you're wanting to assign a keyboard shortcut to an AppleScript application, you'll need to do it as an Automator Service. However, one of the issues you'll run into, when Keyboard Viewer has focus is, it will eat the keyboard shortcut and not close Keyboard Viewer. You'd have to set focus away from Keyboard Viewer in order for the Automator Service to close Keyboard Viewer.The following AppleScript code does that, providing you have not set focus to it after it opens or reset it elsewhere if you did.on run tell application "System Events" set activeApp to name of first application process whose frontmost is true and visible is true end tell if application "KeyboardViewer" is running then quit application "KeyboardViewer" else activate application "KeyboardViewer" end if tell application activeApp to activateend runIn Automator create a new Service workflow with the following setting:Service receives no input in any applicationAdd a Run AppleScript action.Replace the default code with the code above.Click the Compile button (Hammer icon).Save it as e.g.: Toggle Keyboard ViewerIn System Preferences > Keyboard > Services > Shortcuts > ServicesFind e.g. Toggle Keyboard Viewer and give it a shortcut.I gave it: ⌥⌘KNote: Finding a keyboard shortcut that isn't already taken by another app can be a challenge. In this use case, any application that has focus when e.g. ⌥⌘K is pressed, it will go to the app's assigned command before it goes to the e.g.: Toggle Keyboard Viewer service. You might need to go to a four key keyboard shortcut, e.g.: ^⌥⌘K<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZ6Xo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0UsQY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
user
I did try Services approach, but shortcut was ignored. Then tried same application-and-services approaches, using launchd keyboardservicesd, same result. Perhaps an if-else, but then if-else cannot handle keystroke assignment (syntax good but system cannot parse). Nulaana Shortcuts FAQ https://www.nulana.com/support/ - tell application "System Events" delay 0.5keystroke "n" using {command down, control down} end tellNulana's Delay 0.5 works, keystroke seated in Dock's toggle icon application but... Now we have problem KeyboardViewer is open, and app just highlights shortcut keys, intercepting and cutting off any application-services shortcut settings. I think this effort needs to inject something more into launchd. Btw, instructions above very well done.
agent
@mark stewart, What I posted works, I would not have posted it otherwise! Saying "I did try Services approach, but shortcut was ignored." is on no value without knowing what keyboard shortcut you assigned. Did you read my **Note:** in my answer? If the keyboard shortcut you assigned was done by the code you show in the OP, i.e. `tell application "System Events" set application "KeyboardViewer" to (keystroke "K" using control down)` You cannot assign a keyboard shortcut in that manned, it's improper coding regardless of the fact that it compiles. Read the first part of my answer up to the code.
user
Sorry, copy and paste what works for you, not working here, just an error beep. Put this to Nulana support, as sending new mail with other apps open blocks Nulana too. Nulana opens my old Lion Gem, but sometimes close just displays keypress. Launchd (500), for Sierra 10.12.6. Wonder what happens to keyboardservicesd in High Sierra? Flakey applet. Maybe certain Accessibility features make KeyboardViewer.app more stable? Feedback to Apple, requesting more robust app... Got to be careful here, new mp6,1 may be replaced soon.user3439894 wrote: "is on no value without knowing what keyboard shortcut you assigned"user3439894 ... I followed your post, not working here. Nulana Shortcuts.app does work without too many apps running. Maybe ELSE could be used to make your version an IF against my sweet and simple. So IF my version does not close THEN your version would. Nice thing about just using a Dock shortcut to my Automator KeyView.app is that in Keyboard preferences any shortcut used may interfere less with Mac global shortcuts.
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I am getting a 1st gen iPod touch for a friend and I was wondering if you can download like apps and games on it and if it has emojis? It would help to get an answer before I buy it!
agent
Yes, the App Store exists as that was introduced with iPhone OS 2.0, however most apps on the store do not support iPhone OS 3.1.3 (the last version available for the 1st generation iPod touch).Emojis can be activated through <a href="http://www.idownloadblog.com/2009/06/29/how-to-enable-emoji-icons-on-os-30/" rel="nofollow">'emoji hack' apps</a> on the App Store.
user
Thank you. I asked someone and they said that on all iPod's you can go to the settings and get the emojis. She said she wanted emojis so I wanted to make sure!
agent
@camohope47 Only newer versions of iOS have the emoji keyboard available in Settings by default.
user
I have another question. Sorry. But does the first generation have an alarm?
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user
For some very strange reason, I cannot seem to fit the text on line 2 inside the empty space of the 1st line. I tried deleting the words and re-writing them, which didn't work.I tried changing font sizes back and forth, still didn't work.I couldn't find this bug being referenced anywhere...In the animation below / screen cap, I am only using delete and text keys of the computer.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXfn5.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
agent
This might be <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-breaking_space" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Non-breaking space</a> between the words. Please press ⌘ cmd+⇧ shift+i to enable non visible characters. Here's example:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PJfjr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"></a>
user
Yes, that helps since I do see these when pressing this key combination. But how did this weird space get there? I didn't do anything special, just type! And yet my document seems scattered with these
agent
Key combination to insert Non-breaking space is `⌥`+`Space`, maybe You did this by accident? Or this text was copied from other source?
user
No, like I said, I just typed the text... Weird! I'll leave the invisible characters on to watch this strange phenomenon closely... Thanks a lot for your help!
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user
Last year I installed Ubuntu on my 2006 MacBook (Intel), and erased the hard drive with MacOSX 10.5 in the process. Linux was fun, but now I want another Mac to play around with.I've put 10.8's install files on a flash drive and rebooted (holding option), but this brings up the Linux drive selector, and I do not see my flash drive as an option.How can I go about installing 10.9 on my MacBook?Update: I've now got 10.8 on my flash drive. When I load Startup Manager, I see 3 options:Windows, which actually takes me to Ubuntu.EFI Boot which produces a "no" symbol and then the computer shuts down.rEFItI've got rEFIt running through my optical drive. When I select this, I get three primary choices:Boot Mac OSX from Mac OSX Install ESD: "no" symbolBoot boot.efi from Mac OS X Install ESD: "no" symbolBoot Linux from HD: Linux boots as normal.
agent
You can't install Mavericks on a 2006 MacBook. To install Mavericks, you need one of these Macs: iMac (Mid-2007 or later) MacBook (13-inch Aluminum, Late 2008), (13-inch, Early 2009 or later) MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid-2009 or later), MacBook Pro (15-inch or 17-inch, Mid/Late 2007 or later) MacBook Air (Late 2008 or later) Mac mini (Early 2009 or later) Mac Pro (Early 2008 or later) Xserve (Early 2009) Source: <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5842" rel="nofollow">http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5842</a>
user
Fine. I have 10.8 available also. Is this why the disk is unrecognized?
agent
@gmacfarlane What method did you use to put the 'install files' on your flash drive? It should have seen the drive, but not been able to boot from it.
user
I used Disk Utility to execute the instructions here: http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/apple-in-the-enterprise/how-to-create-a-bootable-usb-to-install-os-x-mavericks/I used this same flash drive to do a clean install on a 2012 MacBook Pro two weeks ago.
agent
@gmacfarlane Indeed, it should have seen the drive with the ⌥-boot. C-boot won't boot from a USB. Holding a key on boot intercepts the boot at firmware level and shouldn't have any impact on the OS that is installed. It'll even work if you don't have an OS installed.
user
See updates to question.
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user
I have an account with Amazon S3 service storage. I also have the Transmit app which allow me to sync any local folder with Amazon S3. It works fine but I want this to be done in a scheduled way (let's say every day at 10PM). As far a I see Transmit can not do this.I try with Automator + Calendar. I works, but in this way you don't get any notification if the sync fails.Looking for something similar to Chronosync app.
agent
Highly recommend <a href="http://www.haystacksoftware.com/arq/" rel="nofollow">Arc</a>. Automatic backups from the menubar to A3, whatever and whenever you want.
user
I'm trying it. I does the job. Just a question, as far as see Arc encrypts the files. So, if I access my S3 storage account using a FTP app I can't see the files (because they are encrypted) Am I right? Can I make Arq not to encrypt the files, I mean, just to upload the files? ThanksAlso, is there any way to preview a remote file before I restore it?
agent
I restore to the desktop so I can check it out before replacing a file.
user
I think it would be nice to have a preview by just clicking in the file. Anyway I see that Arq is best app so far to sync with S3 storage service.
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user
I would like to write a script to change the service order from Ethernet 1 to Ethernet 2. Any help would be appreciated.
agent
You need to use networksetup to do this:networksetup -ordernetworkservices <service1> <service2> <service3> <...>For full details, refer to the <a href="https://developer.apple.com/legacy/library/documentation/Darwin/Reference/ManPages/man8/networksetup.8.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">man page</a> (man networksetup)
user
So it would be:networksetup -ordernetworkservices Ethernet_2 Ethernet_1for one, then changing back would be networksetup -ordernetworkservices Ethernet_1 Ethernet_2Is that correct?
agent
Correct. Assuming you want to put Ethernet 2 as priority over Ethernet 1 and then change them back. I suggest putting the services in quotes to handle the spaces.
user
You're my hero allan, thank you. I'll try to work that out and get back to this :)Allan, I messed around with it a little bit. Changed the names to make it easier. Using networksetup -ordernetworkservices "Public" "Ethernet" "Wi-fi" so that I'm on my outside internet, and networksetup -ordernetworkservices "Ethernet" "Public" "Wi-fi" to get back to my work ethernet.
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user
I have an old Canon CanoScan FS4000US Slide Scanner. I have connected it via USB to an Intel iMac running Mac OS 10.7.5, and in System Report, I can see that it is connected. Also, when I disconnect and reconnect the USB cable, the slide tray ejects on the scanner. What I would like to know is if there is any way to mount the scanner properly as a device so that it will be available in Image Capture. I downloaded VueScan, a third-party software, that is able to see the device and process a scan, so there must be some way to get the drivers to see the device in Image Capture. Any ideas?
agent
Have you tried installing this <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/DL56" rel="nofollow">comprehensive Apple Canon Printer/Scanner driver set</a>?I dont have an FS400US I can test this with but its worth a shot.
user
For whatever reason, I am not able to install this. "Canon Printer Drivers can't be installed on this disk. The volume does not meet the requirements for this update."
agent
Have you done all the supplemental system updates through system update? Seems like that error throws when there is a model specific update that hasn't been performed.
user
Software Update says everything is up to date. I found a newer version of the Canon Printer Driver download, but it hasn't helped either.
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